Alexander McQueen
'23 Resort
ushers in the age of the 'Orthadox Punk'
Words by Marshall Morton
[5 minute read]
Alexander McQueen’s Pre-Spring collection is an ode to the divine feminine. The collection, which is characterised by bold asymmetric cuts and immaculate draping continues to build upon Sarah Burton’s vision of the archetypical McQueen Woman. The range has a distinctly Burtonesque feel and allows the audience a glimpse into her world. Darker themes juxtapose heavenly romantic elements with what can only be described as orthadox punk realities in order to bring together an undeniably brilliant armoire.
The range – which is inspired by the cosmos, distinguishes itself from Burton‘s ‘23 Spring Ready-To-Wear collection by means of crystal and sequins embellished gowns and blazers intended to reference the night sky and constellations.
Burton’s evolution as a designer has been evident in recent seasons as she continues to refine and redefine her style. While previous collections have always had a whimsical almost dreamy appeal, this season delivers a more aggressive and modern methodology. The shapes and cuts that the house’s tailors evoke constitute a new era, and while the McQueen Woman has never been demure, Resort ‘23 heralds a more mature and assertive approach to the narrative.
Resort ‘23 features several distinctive textures, often collocated with statement leather pieces. The effect is sensational – regal drapings are accented by authoritative and sharp tailoring, while traditionally chaste silhouettes are amalgamated with edgy, bondage inspired harnesses.
Since her appointment to creative director in 2010, Burton has consistently delivered upon her vision for Alexander McQueen, while staying true to the brand’s DNA. While it could be argued that the designer has a habit of recycling themes, it should be noted that the progression of Burton’s work has been consistent and deliberate, a steady transformation from one season unto the next.
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Alexander McQueen